Hetehaltijan lumous (The Gnome’s Enchantment), circles the Salla fells

Find out what lies beyond the fells! Take a look on the other side and see the Salla fells from a different vantage point on this trail that circles the fells via Tunturilammet, Kylmähete, Pahakuru and Kaippahanoja. The trail takes you through fascinating and variable landscapes and interesting place names in the middle of the great wilderness. The stories this captivating wilderness has to tell...

The places you see along this trail feature curious names and incredible beauty.

The place names evoke many questions: There are often ponds at the foot of fells. Why are these ones called Tunturilammet (fell ponds)? How did Kylmähete (Cold quagmire) get its name? Aren’t all quagmires cold? What is so evil about Pahakuru (Evil gully)? The places you see along this trail feature curious names and incredible beauty.

The trail takes you through variable terrain that gets your imagination going: pine forests, dry heath forests, spruce forests, the edge of a pond, the side of a bog, ditches and gullies. It takes you to the other side of the Salla fells, towards the mysterious Aatsinginhauta trench and the Russian border. If you’re lucky, it will also bring you back.


The past and its mystique. Quagmires and gnomes. Nature and enchantment. As you walk along in the middle of nowhere, you can stop to think about the secrets of Salla’s ancient history that are unlikely to ever be solved.


This is a place that has always been full of fairytales and stories. You can stop at the Pahakuru campfire site to tell stories to your hiking partner, preferably something a bit mysterious...


When you see your face on the surface of the quagmire, you understood how small and limited you truly are. When you have tasted the ancient water of the quagmire and breathed in the ancient air of the fell, you realise the unlimited nature of your imagination.


Trail difficulty rating


Services on the trail:

The trail is marked by red square signs. There is a lean-to at Kaippahanoja in Tunturilampi and a hut in Kylmähete. A campfire site is available in Pahakuru.  The trail crosses a few dikes that provide a source of water. There are also several ponds that can be used as a source of water for boiling.

Estimated duration

5–6 hours

Trail conditions, related risks and recommended equipment

The trail and signposts are fairly clear. The terrain is uneven and rocky in places, and there are a few steep sections. The wettest spots have duckboards. Recommended footwear: in the summer season, hiking boots or rubber boots.

Description of the natural environment

The trail crosses various types of terrain including commercial forests, dry heath forests, more wilderness-like spruce-dominated forests and bogs. The Kylmähete area is more wilderness-like. There are magnificent dry pine forests in Pahakuru.

Description of the cultural environment

Wilderness and fell landscapes.


Located in the Sallatunturi fell area. Starts from Sallatunturi Fell Centre (behind spa hotel Holiday Club Salla or at the foot of the northern slope) with signposts pointing the way to the trail.

Basic information
Contact information:

puh +358 (0) 400 269 838

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Postipolku 3
98900 Salla

European Union - European Regional Development Fund Regional Council of Lapland Leverage from the EU Salla

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Transporting rocks for an anti-tank defensive line

Veikko Hämäläinen, who lived in Sarviselkä of Salla, transported rocks for the defensive line of the village centre with his lorry, from the autumn of 1940 until April the following year. Ten lorries were doing so from the Kaunisharju area – where the Reindeer Park is situated today –,...